Weightlessness. That familiar intoxicating feeling.
Dropping down the face of a rambunctious right-hander, I gripped my rail tightly as the darkness of the reef below contrasted with my bright yellow board and the clear blue water. Reaching the bottom and setting my line, my senses were going into overload. With the lip beginning to pitch, I dug my fins in and found myself encased in a flawless turquoise tube.
After riding through the shockwave and feeling the wave breathe over me, I escaped to the shoulder and the burning midday sun.
Halcyon days indeed.
As I paddled back towards the peak, my thoughts wandered back to the week before and a single conversation in a Canggu beach bar that set me on my way to the island.
“Mate, the waves over there are legit,” remarked Lachie, as he took a deep swig of his Bintang.
As a hard-charging bodyboarder hailing from the slab-drenched coast of Western Australia, I knew that he wouldn’t bandy about such an assessment if they didn’t match up. At that point, I was in something of a conundrum as to where I’d continue my solo Indonesian bodyboarding odyssey. Java, Sumatra and Sumbawa had all appealed, but it was what he said next that really piqued my interest.
“Imagine Bali twenty years ago. Low key, mellow and friendly but still with amazing waves on tap. That’s what you’ll find.”
By the time happy hour at Old Man’s had finished, and after hearing tantalising descriptions of backlit barrels and blood-orange sunsets, my mind was made up.
Nusa Lembongan awaited.
A slower side of Indonesia
A slower side of IndonesiaAnyone who has recently ventured to the Island of the Gods will know that Bali is no longer the quiet final stop on the hippie trail it once was. The island now welcomes millions of international visitors each year, bringing huge benefits but also well-documented challenges including congestion, water scarcity, waste and rapid development.
The irony of penning a travel blog encouraging people to visit a neighbouring island is not lost on me. Simply transferring those same pressures twelve or so kilometres across the Badung Strait would hardly be progress.
For me, part of Lembongan’s appeal is its slower pace and smaller scale. It’s a place to enjoy with respect: supporting local businesses, taking care of the environment and remembering that this beautiful little island is home to a community long after we’ve packed our board bags and headed home. The policy approach taken by the local government reinforces this crucial need for balance between the needs of locals and visitors alike.
Arriving at Sanur Harbour on Bali’s east coast for the dawn crossing, I dutifully paid the fare and settled in for the roughly forty-minute ride across.
After a short nap and some strong coffee, I was stepping down onto the pontoon at Jungutbatu and checking into my hostel.
Slower island life doesn’t mean going without creature comforts. Air conditioning, a mix of international and local cuisine, reliable Wi-Fi, wellness services and treatments are commonplace.
While many residents have some knowledge of English, showing a willingness to learn and use a few words of Bahasa Indonesia goes a long way in pretty much any situation, whether in the ocean or on land.
But enough of that?
Onto the waves.
Shipwrecks
ShipwrecksThat very afternoon I was paddling out at the eponymous Shipwrecks, named after the vessels that have come unstuck around its unforgiving reef over the years.
Sharing the peeling right-handers with a small group of very talented local stand-ups, after a few hours I called it a day.
When surfing any new spot, it’s always worth taking the time to watch how the lineup operates and easing yourself in gently. Patience, respect and calm are a proven formula for getting your fill of waves.
And on Lembongan, there are plenty of waves worth waiting for.
Lacerations
The following day, I hit Lacerations at first light.
When I first heard the name, a thousand gory images of bare skin colliding with sharp coral reef flooded through my mind.
Hollow, fast and intense, it is a wave that commands respect, calculation and decisiveness. For a bodyboarder, though, that combination of steep take-offs, hollow sections and serious barrel potential is exactly what makes waves like this so intoxicating.
The rewards are rich in the extreme.
This was where most of my trip would be spent, and what eventually caused me to extend my stay. A truly world-class right on its day, it remains one of the finest waves I have surfed anywhere.
Razors is another reef break in the same bay that can become seriously challenging when the swell fills in, but not one I sampled due to my inability to drag myself away from Lacerations.
For those wanting something on the lighter side, the final wave on this stretch has you covered. Playgrounds is a fun split peak and generally more forgiving than its heavier neighbours, although this is still reef surfing and deserves the appropriate respect.
At any of these spots, if you don’t fancy the paddle out, there are local boats that will drop surfers near the breaks for a small fee.
Island evenings
Island eveningsOne evening, I took a walk down the beachfront in search of a quiet nightcap.
The strip at Kuta, this is not.
For those who value a slower pace of life, and not having to withstand hordes of loud partygoers making you arrive for the dawn patrol bleary-eyed and irritable, Lembongan will see you right.
To my intrigue, as I sidled up to the bar I heard a host of south coast English accents from the next table. These belonged to an older crew of bodyboarders from Bournemouth.
I was quickly taken in and a Bintang thrust into my hand.
Hearing stories of Lembongan from years gone by, when electricity was only available for a few hours a day and the local sea creatures were often the only others in the lineup, made for a very enjoyable evening.
Among their company was none other than Mark Jackman, who settled on Bali way back when and started a family, with his son now running the Baliwood Social Club – a fine spot for a few post-pits beers.
It was another reminder that the best surf trips aren’t only about the waves you ride. They’re about the people you meet, the stories you hear and the places you find yourself when you aren’t wearing fins.
When the waves take a day off
When the waves take a day offOn the rare flat days in Lembongan, fear not.
From scuba diving and snorkelling to kayaking, hiking or simply kicking back with a book, there is no shortage of ways to spend a day away from the waves.
One afternoon, I opted for a snorkel.
“Yeah, one, two manta here for sure,” smiled Wayan, a clove cigarette pursed between his lips as he sidled the boat up to an innocuous-looking cove.
Upon diving into the deep blue water, I found myself face to face with an enormous reef manta ray, which looked to span some fifteen feet from wingtip to wingtip.
Below me was a small squadron, their dark grey skin contrasting against the coral reef beneath.
As the ray glided lazily past me, I came up for air and took in the vastness of the ocean behind and beneath me.
Moments like that are another reason Lembongan gets under your skin.
For my ideas on what you can do in Nusa Lembongan check out our Top 5 Nusa Lembongan Must Do’s blog
A bodyboarder’s island
Nusa Lembongan is a place that should be high on any bodyboarder’s bucket list.
It has the waves, of course. Serious waves. Hollow reef breaks, warm water and the possibility of finding yourself staring through the turquoise exit of a barrel you’ll be replaying in your head long after the trip is over.
But there’s more to it than that.
There are the early-morning boat rides, the Bintangs after a long session, the locals you meet along the way, the sunsets, the food and the ability to settle into the slower rhythm of island life.
Go with an open mind, a big smile and a good attitude, and you could soon find yourself scoring some of the waves of your life in one of the most stunning backdrops you could possibly imagine.
For more inspiration on visiting this amazing island, take a look at Tara and Amandas bodyboard holidays trip.
Lembongan Lowdown
Almost everything on Nusa Lembongan has to arrive by boat, so groceries, fuel and other commodities can be slightly more expensive than on mainland Bali. Despite this, the island can still be a very affordable place to travel.
The prices below should be treated as a rough guide. Local prices and exchange rates change, so always check current rates before travelling.
Transport & Getting Around
Scooter rental: approximately 80,000–100,000 IDR per day.
Scooters are one of the most common ways of getting around the island. If hiring one, make sure you have the appropriate licence and insurance, wear a helmet and take extra care on unfamiliar roads.
Food & Drink
Local warung meal – Nasi Goreng / Mie Goreng: approximately 30,000–60,000 IDR
A filling plate of Indonesian fried rice or noodles can still be one of the tastiest and best-value meals on the island.
Western-style café main course: approximately 90,000–150,000 IDR
Burgers, smoothie bowls, pasta and similar options are readily available around Jungutbatu and Mushroom Bay.
Large Bintang beer: approximately 45,000–60,000 IDR
Barista coffee: approximately 30,000–45,000 IDR
Activities & Leisure
Balinese massage – one hour: approximately 100,000–150,000 IDR
Mangrove tour: approximately 100,000–150,000 IDR
The mangrove forest on the northeast of the island offers another side to Lembongan and is well worth exploring when you’re taking some time away from the reef.
Five Useful Phrases for Lembongan
Five Useful Phrases for LembonganYou don’t need to be fluent in Bahasa Indonesia to make an effort. A few simple phrases can help break the ice and show respect to the people you meet.
Hello
Halo
Thank you
Terima kasih
Sorry / Excuse me
Maaf / Permisi
Watch out!
Awas!
How are the waves?
Ombaknya bagaimana?
A smile and a little effort go a long way.
Experience Nusa Lembongan with Bodyboard Holidays
For March 2027, Bodyboard Holidays is bringing a group of bodyboarders to Nusa Lembongan to experience the waves, warm water and slower rhythm of island life for themselves.
From the moment you arrive in Bali, we take care of the logistics so you can concentrate on the reason you came: getting into the water, progressing your bodyboarding and making the most of one of Indonesia’s most exciting bodyboarding destinations.
It’s a chance to experience Lembongan with a group of like-minded bodyboarders, with expert guidance in and out of the water and the knowledge that the details of the trip have been taken care of.
If Lembongan has been sitting on your bodyboarding bucket list, March 2027 might be the time to finally tick it off.
